Hey Linda...I posted a response to your question in the Plant Doctor forums. I hope it's helpful. Cheers, Robby

Hey Linda...I wrote an article ('Why Won't My Plant Flower?') that you can find on the Plant Library Page, or by copying and pasting the following link: http://easybloom.com/plantlibrary/care/why-wont-my-plant-flower. This article covers some basics of what we as gardeners do to prevent our plants from flowering. I would definitely peruse the article. Having said that, I am curious to how much nitrogen has been provided to your Hydrangeas. Often times plants that receive a lot of nitrogen fertilizer will go into a "vegetative mode". The word vegetative means something different for plants. Basically, it means that it won't produce any reproductive parts (i.e. flowers) and will only produce more leaves, stems and roots. The fact that you mentioned that the leaves are very green also makes me believe that you have a lot of nitrogen in the soil. You can try to leach some of the nutrients out of the soil by watering with clear water (tap water should suffice). When you water with clear water, you want to be sure that there's enough so that the water moves through the rootzone and will drag with it any nitrogen that is sitting in the soil. In other words, if the water just sits there and it doesn't drain well, it won't leach much nitrogen. After leaching I would reintroduce nutrients, but at a much lower concentration and possibly one that is higher in phosphorous than nitrogen, or at least equal. You may want to use a fertilizer that is 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. (FYI those numbers refer to the 3 different macronutrients in the following order: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium). Also, you may want to simply use a slow release fertilizer, which simplifies the process. You probably will not want to fertilize after August or the beginning of September. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions. Happy Gardening!!! Robby

Hey Ara...These look like great ideas...Thanks for the feedback...Robby

Hey Simona...So I've read your other posts in the general forums too. I'm sorry to tell you but the sensor will not be accurate in Italy. Currently the sensor only works in the United States. The reasoning behind this is not because we at PlantSense, maker of EasyBloom, have anything against the rest of the world and want to keep it only usable in the U.S. The real reason is because there is a lot of science that occurs in the background of the device that currently we have only calibrated to the U.S. There is no work around at this point either. This does not mean that we are not interested in moving out of the U.S. I hope this helpful, but I do apologize that it isn't good news.

What color are the flowers? One of my favorite climbing roses is the Lady Banks Rose (Rosa banksiae). If they are small yellow or white flowers, I would bet it's the Lady Banks Rose. Very popular, but for a good reason. They rarely have pest problems and they don't really have "thorns". The yellow flowers tend to be a bit more fragrant.

Hey Nathan...I will definitely look into it. Thanks for the suggestion...Robby

Hey Susan....That's Awesome! I'm glad to hear that. It's very validating hearing someone is so pleased with something we here at PlantSense, maker of EasyBloom, have worked so long on. Thanks again....We look forward to hearing more about your experiences....Robby

Hey Bonnie...Horsetail reed, or scouring rush, or Equisetum is an attractive plant, but I have to admit, not one of my favorites. :) The only reason why is because it can be so invasive. Regardless, I will push my emotions to the side and give you an honest answer. These are bog plants, although they can survive short periods of drought. I am assuming that you are asking how to prevent the tops of the stems from snapping and falling (this is often called "lodging"). I would recommend pruning the lodged stems all the way to the ground. Don't worry about doing too much damage to the plant. Horsetails have underground stems where the aerial stems will grow back from. When you prune high on the aerial stem, you will cause the the aerial stem to branch. When it branches it is more likely to become top-heavy and lodge. Also, if the aerial stems are damaged, this too can cause the stem to branch out and make the problem worse. I would provide the plants with plenty of water...they can survive being submerged in water. Additionally, they have a high concentration of silica in them, which gives the cell walls some strength. (Rumor has it that early colonists used scouring rush to scour their pans. The high concentration of silica gives it the properties that make it strong and scratchy.) The silica allows for the aerial stems to grow tall and have a long life. If you feel that you need to supplement your horsetail with silica you can compost the broken horsetail stems (also grass clippings; grass uses silica much like horsetails). This compost can be used to provide silica to the rootzone of the plant. I hope this is helpful. Happy Gardening!!! Robby

Plants use calcium in a similar manner as animals do. The calcium in our bones make them strong. Plants use calcium in their cell walls, which provides them with added strength. You can see why a lack of calcium will cause the bottom of the tomato to be soft and gooey. It is also an easy way for pathogens to enter the plant. I would argue that the tomato that already has the blossom end rot is not salvageable, but if you follow what I recommended you may be able to prevent this disorder for the future fruits on your plant. I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Happy Gardening!!! Robby

I would also fertilize using a balanced liquid fertilizer applied to the soil right as the fruit sets. (Fruit set can be defined by when the petals drop from the flower). This will provide calcium to the plant when it needs it most...when the fruit is developing. When using a fertilizer, I strongly suggest following the directions on the fertilizer's label. It is definitely possible to fertilize too much. I would also look for the source of nitrogen as primarily being nitrate and not ammonium.