As for fertilizer, usually "baby" plants need light doses of fertilizer at first. It sounds like you are transplanting mostly indoor plants. I would recommend you get some fertilizer that is specifically designed for houseplants. You can find this at most any hardware store or plant nursery. They generally come in granular form, which you dissolve in water. You can water with diluted fertilizer solution if you wish, but I wouldn't go full strength after you are sure that the roots are substantially developed. Fortunately this is about the same time that you will stop giving so much moisture to the "baby" plants since they have graduated from being a baby to more of a toddler. Kind of like going from baby formula to solid food in human babies. :) The amount of time it takes to reach this stage really depends on the amount of root growth that is taking place and that can depend on a lot of factors. Basically it is difficult to tell how long it will take, but on average I would say that it can take anywhere from several weeks to several months.

Hey Kadra...Having a fast-draining soil is rarely a problem for plants. Most plants prefer not to have their "feet wet". They prefer to be in moist soil that is not completely soaked. It is true that newly transplanted plants should be given constantly moist soil (the reason why is usually they do not have enough roots yet developed to maintain the aboveground plant parts yet), but it is also important to be sure not to over water them. It sounds like with your super fast draining soil, that shouldn't be too big of a problem. Also, I would recommend not allowing the tray to remain full of water. When the water drains from the pot into the tray, you should eventually drain off that excess water. The pot shouldn't be sitting in standing water for too long.

You got it, Glenn. This plant will be added to our back log of plants to add to the database. If you have any nice pictures of a Bower Plant, we are more than happy to accept it for our database. You will be given the photo credit as well. Thanks again...Dr. Robby

Now, there are plants (including some veggies) that seem to be immune, or at least relatively unresponsive, to the effects of juglone. These plants include carrots, corn, squashes, beans and melons. I'm sure there are more, but these are the common veggies. You could try growing those plants, but I do think the raised bed issue will give you some success as well. Normally growing plants that are susceptible to the effects of juglone outside of the drip line (the drip line is the area on the ground directly underneath a tree's canopy) will not result in their succumbing to the effects, but walnuts' roots can grow past the perimeter of the drip line as well. I hope this information has been helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers...Dr. Robby

Being vigilant with the removal of walnut tree litter from your raised beds is important too. Granted the roots do produce more juglone than any other part of the walnut tree, but there is still some in the leaves. When the leaves decompose, it releases the juglone into the soil. This is also why you shouldn't use walnut leaves for composting.

The reason why I say you might be able to get away with raised beds is how the juglone gets into the soil. Juglone is found in almost all tissues of the plant: leaves, bark, wood, roots. The roots, however, produce more juglone than in other plant tissues. Not only do the roots exude the compound, but the compound is also released into the soil when the roots decompose. A raised bed will work if a couple of things happen: (1) the walnut roots do not invade the raised bed, (2) and you are vigilant with removing any dropped walnut leaves that may find their way into your raised bed. I would recommend laying down a few layers of chicken wire before you fill the raised bed with soil. This will prevent moles and gophers from chewing on any veggie roots you plant in the bed. This may also stymie (for a short period of time) some walnut root development into the raised bed. Normally tree roots grow horizontally and down, but they will also grow towards moisture, which I assume your raised beds would be leaking into the native soil. Speaking of native soil, do not use soil from your yard to fill in the raised beds. You will have to bring in new soil to fill the raised beds because you want to be sure there is no juglone in it. Juglone will break down when exposed to the air or microbial digestion within 1 month or so, but walnut roots that have yet to fully decompose can provide a steady source of juglone for a long time as the root itself breaks down.

Hey Patricia...You might be able to get away with growing veggies around your black walnut trees by using raised beds. Let me tell you how black walnuts cause other plants to wilt and die though. Black walnut is a member of the plant genus Juglans. In this genus you will find a number of plants that produce a compound called juglone. This compound is a known plant growth inhibitor and has been used as a natural herbicide. Tomatoes and peppers are both susceptible to juglone's toxicity. The compound is more or less harmless to people, but some will say that the allergic response to walnut pollen is greater than other plants' pollens.

I recently potted 3 "babies" that were grown off bigger plants, a corn plant, philedendron, and a spider plant. I have heard that when you pot a plant that you are supposed to water it a lot at first. Just wondereing how long I should be watering them frequently? If there is still standing water in the tray then I don't but for the most part the water has been gone almost every time I have gone to water them. Also, the soil drains the water really fast. I have been looking into getting some fertilizer. Will that help the soil and how fast it drains? Or will it just be nutrients for the plant? Thanks.

We have a few Black Walnut trees close to where we plant a vegetable garden usually tomatoes, peppers & some herbs. All plants wilt and die soon after being planted. Will a raised bed solve the problem? Or do you have any other suggestions?

When doing a query in the Plant Library I am not able to bring up Pandorea jasmoides, Bower Plant. Can you list it if it is not already listed? Thanks. Glenn