Pumpkins are members of the squash family, along with the winter squash, summer squash, and gourd. Squashes are part of the ancient Native American "three sisters" garden, which contains the vegetables-- squash, beans, and corn. Iroquois legend states that corn, bean, and squash are three inseparable sisters that will only thrive when grown together--typically on a rounded mound of soil. Corn is the oldest sister, planted in the center and stands tall. Squash is the next sister who grows over the mound, protecting the other sisters from the growth of weeds and shading the soil with her leaves to keep it cool and moist. Bean is the third sister that climbs over the squash and up the corn, binding the three sisters together as she reaches for the sun.
We loved watching these fun fruits mature in Burpee's summer vegetable plot at Fordhook Farm. Loads of bright, tri-colored squash, only 1-2 lbs. each, are uniquely striped with brush strokes of cream and golden yellow with a blossom end in striking deep green and cream. Bake or roast whole or scoop out centers and use for a lovely soup bowl at a special dinner party. 100 days.
| Plant Types: | Annual, Fruit, Vegetable |
| Light: | Full Sun |
| Height: | 3 feet |
| Width: | 30 feet |
| Bloom Color: | Orange, Yellow |
| Bloom Seasons: | Early fall, Mid fall, Late fall |
| Special Features: | Edible |
| Fertilizer: | Water Soluble Veggie Plant Food |
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Sow seeds directly into the ground in spring when the temperature outside is 70°F. In areas with cool summers, it is best to start the seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. Transplant the seedlings only after the threat of frost has passed.
Before planting, work in a 2-3" layer of compost into the soil. Where summers are cool, it is recommended to lay black plastic mulch over the beds 2 weeks before planting as to preheat the soil. Poke holes in the plastic and set the transplants into the holes.
Sow the seeds 2-4' apart in rows spaced 5-8' apart.
You may want to plant your pumpkins away from other squashes as members within the squash family are able to cross-pollinate.
Let pumpkins stay on the vine until they have reached appropriate size and color. The rind of the pumpkins should feel hard. Best to harvest before a hard frost. Cut the stems 2" above the fruits with a sharp knife. Be carefull not to bruise or nick the skin as tainted fruits won't keep for long. After picking, clean the fruits with a mild bleach solution that will kill any disease spores.
Keep pumpkins in a humid room at 80-85°F for 2 weeks to cure. Then store in a dark location at 50-55°F. Pumpkins will stay fine for 2-3 months if stored properly.
Pumpkins are warm-season annuals that need sufficient amounts of heat to grow well. You can let pumpkins run across a lawn, or trellis smaller-fruited varieties on a fence or other substrate. Make sure to use mesh bags or netting to support the fruits though.
Pumpkins produce separate male and female flowers. Thus, cross-pollination needs to occur. Pollination is usually conducted by bees or other insects. If you live in an area with a low bee population, or if you use insecticide or are only growing a couple plants, there is a high chance that your pumpkins will not get pollinated. The best solution is to pollinate the flowers yourself, a process known as hand pollination.
In midmorning, find a male flower--they have long thin stems behind the flower and no small fruits--and remove it from the plant. Rid of all the petals so that the stamen with the pollen remains. Then, locate female flowers that are open and run the stamen across the insides of the flowers. Try your best to hit all segments of the female flower with the pollen.
Pollination is successful if the female flower dies and the tiny pumpkin starts to grow. If pollination did not occur, the baby pumpkin will shrivel and die.
Needs rich, fertile soil and plenty of water to thrive. Provide 1-2" of water per week. Increase dose during dry periods. Enhance water retention by providing a mulch after the soil has warmed in warm-summer areas. In cool regions, make sure to apply the black plastic mulch described above before planting.
Fertilize at planting time with a balanced fertilizer like 5-5-5. Once plants start running, sidedress with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
If your goal is to grow large pumpkins, fertilize young plants with high phosphorus fertilizer, like 15-30-15 on a weekly basis. After the fruits set, start using a fertilizer that has more potassium content, such as 15-11-30 also per week.
Remove weeds. In cool-summer areas, make sure to pinch off blossoms and small fruits that form later in the season. Since these will not have time to mature, it is best to remove them so that energy can be put into maturing the existing fruits.
For growing large pumpkins, don't let your plants spread. Prune the vine 10' beyond where the pumpkin has set. Also, make sure only to select 1-2 pumpkins per plant and remove the others. In this way, all of the plants energy will be used on just these couple of fruits.
Watch out for cucumber beetles that like to feed on young pumpkin plants and flowers. These beetles are also known for spreading harmful diseases such as mosaic and bacterial wilt. Rotating your crops and covering the plants are two good ways to prevent infestation. Applying a thick mulch around the plants will deter egg laying by the beetles and will also hinder larvae from climbing from the soil to the fruit. Handpicking is also an option when it comes to removing these pests. You can also spray insecticides like spinosad or carbaryl to rid of cucumber beetles.
Aphids can also be troublesome to pumpkin plants. Be certain to remove feeding aphids with high-powered water sprays or insecticidal soap.
Pumpkins are vulnerable to fusarium wilt and powdery mildew disease. Protect your pumpkins from these diseases by maintaining proper spacing, removing all weeds, and choosing disease-resistant varieties.